Outdoor Gear Lab
The cam durability has been great. One area that has not held up as well on some cams is the plastic coating on the cable clip and loop. This is mainly just an issue if you aid climb. After a lot of bounce testing, we find this plastic starts to wear away, exposing the metal cable. This is not only a comfort concern (it is uncomfortable on your fingers when pulling the trigger), it also means the runner attached to the cable might be more likely to break in a fall. Again, this is only an..." go to full review
For many people Black Diamond Camalots are the gold standard for camming units. Their double axle design allows each cam to have a good range, increasing the chances that you'll find a piece that fits on the first try. Camalots used to have the biggest range on the market, but with the advent of Omega Pacific Link Cams and Metolius' Super Cam, Camalots now land about in the middle of the pack. That said, we found that Camalots are one of the best cams we tested to fit into awkward..." go to full review
This is where the X4 excels the most. It has a very narrow head and it is really easy to get into weird pods and cracks. This has been become Chris Mac's secret Clean Aid weapon. The smallest size goes in really tiny pin scars where it doesn't seem like anything else will. Most importantly…it then holds!..." go to full review
The CAMP Nano 23 is one of the lightest quickdraws out there. Even though it is really small, the spine is pretty easy to grab (it is less slippery than the Metolius FS Mini Quickdraw). One minor like is the fact that the small size makes it ideal for clipping into tight-fitting chain links and tiny bolt hanger holes. As with all carabiners with the wiregate design, the gate is less likely to get frozen shut on alpine routes.go to full review
Overall the Black Diamond Oz is great if you are looking for something ultra-lightweight. It received the highest rating for portability, but it comes at the expense of handling and clipping. If you have hands the size of a ten year old or you're willing to deal with smaller carabiners in exchange for weight savings then you'll want to have a set of these on your rack...." go to full review
The Black Diamond PosiWire is a great pick for vertical and/or moderate sport climbs. The bottom carabiner is great for clipping but the unprotected notch can snag when unclipping your rope on steeper terrain. They're also a great choice if you don't want to spend your entire climbing gear budget on one set of draws. If you buy these draws though, just make sure you put some colored tape on them so you know which ones are yours at the crag, as you'll likely see lots of them..." go to full review
One of the best deals out there on a model with lightweight wiregate biners. The Mad Rock Ultra-Light is one of the only competitors that costs less. However, if you buy the five-pack you'll save a few bucks in comparison to the Mad Rock, which doesn't come in a discount pack...." go to full review
The Mad Rock UltraLight does a great job of balancing price, weight, and functionality. It is not the lightest model out there, but it is pretty darn light. It is not the most functional, but it gets the job done. In our tests, it scored well but not in a stand out way. The carabiners on this draw are a nice size; not too small - not too big. Plus, they are usable with gloves, unlike smaller biners.go to full review
The Black Diamond FreeWire isn't much to look at at first glance, but we were quickly reminded not to judge a book by its cover. It performs well in most situations (the exception being super steep sport climbing), and if you're more interested in value than esthetics you'll want a set of these draws. If your entire draw rack is made up of scavenged leaver-biners, consider spending a few dollars for this good and durable product...." go to full review
If you are looking for a one-size fits all draw then look no further. The Black Diamond HotWire is great for both sport and traditional climbing, and won't set you back as much as some of the more expensive hot-forged draws out there. If you are confused by the many permutations on a quickdraw that Black Diamond makes, know that you can settle on the HotWire and you won't be disappointed...." go to full review