Outdoor Gear Lab

What is not to like about this locking carabiner? It scored well in every test. It is light yet big enough to hold many knots of climbing rope. It is compact yet still easy to handle due to the featured spine. The key-lock gate is one of the smoothest to operate and has a special design to prevent over-tightening and locking up. It is incredibly smooth to belay with (the regular Petzl Attache only beats it by a hair).go to full review

The potential performance benefits of passive assisted braking devices like the Smart Alpine excited our testers and buoyed the possibility of a revolution in belay devices. Assisted locking and two slots for double rope rappels, what more could we ask for? Unfortunately these benefits are achieved with substantial compromises in the Smart Alpine. Although it can assist braking and rappel two ropes, it does both of these tasks poorly. In addition, it's bulky and creates some jerkiness..." go to full review

Overall the Verso fulfills its role as a basic tube-style belay device. These designs are great for new or experienced climbers that appreciate simplicity and a good deal. When compared with its direct competition in this class though, the Black Diamond ATC XP, we noticed a few small drawbacks in lock-off strength and durability. Nevertheless, the Verso is a capable belay device and well worth your consideration.go to full review

We were initially impressed with the promise of the Edelrid Mega Jul. This a light, compact belay device that offers assisted braking functions at a fraction of the price of the competition. Ultimately though, the performance of this passive braking assistance is a significant compromise from active assisted locking devices like the Petzl GriGri 2. It's just not as smooth or as strong. Furthermore, the Mega Jul's friction in auto-block mode was horrific. We're intrigued by the..." go to full review

In our previous look at belay devices, the Cinch had enough advantages over the original GriGri in size, weight, and price to earn it a Top Pick award. Today, the GriGri 2 has taken the lead in weight and narrowed the price difference while also proving to be every bit as reliable as it's predecessor. In addition, other viable options, like the Edelrid Mega Jul, have entered the market to compete as affordable passive assisted braking options. For these reasons the Cinch no longer..." go to full review

There was a time when the Edelrid Eddy created real competition with the original Petzl GriGri. However, with the introduction of the GriGri 2 and as rope diameters have steadily decreased, that is no longer true. Today, the Eddy feels overpriced, overweight, and outmatched in a field of belay devices that has grown lighter and smoother each passing year. Furthermore, shoppers who once looked to the Eddy for maximum safety can now consider the Camp Matik as well.go to full review

For years the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide have been two of the most popular belay devices among American multi-pitch climbers. It's easy to understand why, they're both afforable, smooth, and reliable. At first glance our testers thought they would prefer the Reverso because it's lighter and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler. However, when we actually compared the two side-by-side with the same ropes in a controlled environment (especially in auto-block..." go to full review

The ATC XP is our favorite basic tube belay device. It's light and durable and the two friction modes it has increase its versatility for different rope or friction situations. We like it most for new climbers still ingraining proper belay techniques or for experienced folks looking for a simple, reliable device that can do everything pretty well. There are cheaper devices available but we believe the $21.95 MSRP is justified. It's also frequently on sale, so consider checking the..." go to full review

The Camp Matik impressed us with its sturdy construction and combination of safety features. Its anti-panic lowering lever and gradual camming action are sure to prevent some real-world injuries. Though, these benefits come with drawbacks. It's heavy, 9.7 oz, and not quite as smooth as the GriGri 2. In addition, we suspect the $200 price tag will be a deal breaker for many shoppers. Until that price comes down, the Matik is best suited for users whose sole concern is safety...." go to full review

The performance difference between the ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4 is closer than we could have imagined. Both devices are smooth and reliable when belaying a leader or rappelling. They're also reasonably priced and durable. The differences amounted ultimately to only weight and auto-block resistance. Although the Reverso 4 is an ounce lighter, over the lifespan of either device, we believe the ATC Guide's lower auto-block friction will actually save most users more energy...." go to full review