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Fixe Alien Hybrid Revolution Single Sling 3/8 Cam

Alien Hybrid Revolution Single Sling 3/8

Rating

My vote: None ( 4 avg )

Description

When Dave Waggoner introduced his Alien cams to climbing, the art of technical placements changed. Alien cams are the best thin crack protection. The Alien hybrid units excel in pin scars and technical placements. Dave's design has been and will be copied in the future but so far this original concept stands alone.

Retail price

US$ 74.95
Award Image
Weight (g / oz)

Weight (g / oz)

In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

47.0 g / 1.65 oz
Cam Head 4 lobes, single axle
Offset Yes offset
Stem Flexible single stem
Sling ­­Dyneema (single sling loop)
Camming Angle ­
Active Strength 5 kN
­
Cam Range (mm / in)

Cam Range (mm / in)

In millimeters and inches, the maximum dimensions of the cam lobes when shut tight and fully extended. Since the "usable" range is so debatable, all manufacturers now list the full dimensions to avoid selling themselves short.

For offset cams, we'll list the max dimensions possible and then afterwards list each of lobe dimensions.

­­­­

Offset range
8.0 - 17.0 mm (0.33 - 0.67 in)
Materials ­Wire Material: 5/32" 7x19 Stainless
Certification CE, UIAA
AVG RATING
5.04
( 5 avg )
Rating
5.04
( 5 avg )

Little lifesaver

Pros
Lightweight
Stronger than old aliens (by 1kN)
Fits in tiny cracks
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

I love this cam. It's a great "oh shoot" piece when nothing else will go in.

I love this cam. It's a great "oh shoot" piece when nothing else will go in.

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The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.