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Eric B

Reviews

10.2mm Antidote 60m Classic

Beal
Beal 10.2mm Antidote Classic Rope
6

Good starter rope

Pros
Inexpensive
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

I bought this as my first rope for top-roping and leading rock routes at local crags without heinous approaches. I've used it several times a month for the past 3 years. It's taken several falls on the sharp end and I've since retired it to TR only, but it has served me well. It isn't the lighest or the fanciest, but it is a solid starter rope.

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Drop Zone

Black Diamond
Black Diamond Drop Zone Crash Pad
5.04

The mighty pad

Pros
Taco style means better protection and no weak spots in foam
Good amount of room to store gear
Quality foam
Good coverage area
Cons
Taco style means it isn't the easiest to fold up...
Can be a bit awkward to carry
Can be weird to set up if it's been stored folded for long periods of time...
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

I bought one of these pads used to supplement my Metolious Magnum. These two pads combined make for a wonderful solo setup. The BD Drop Zone offers great coverage area, and is good for protecting against rocks and stumps in landing zones. The foam is quality and it is comfortable to land on. The taco style and strap system allows for plenty of gear storage.

If you're looking for a starter pad or a supplemental pad, this is a great option.

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Big Bro 3

Trango
Trango Big Bro 3
5.04

Solid piece of OW protection

Pros
Lightweight and low-bulk compared to cams of the same size
Cons
Limited use
More difficult to place than cams
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times

I bought one used to expand my OW rack. They're a solid addition if you plan to climb a ton of OW or need extra pro for long pitches of this unholy crack size. They do require a bit more care when placing, but they're solid pieces that take up less room on the harness and come at a similar price to equivalent sizedcams. If you are machoist who enjoys doing battle with wide cracks, having some Big Bros is mandatory.

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Phase 12cm

Trango
Trango Phase 12cm
6

Solid draw depending on the application

Pros
Lightweight
The opposite of bulky
Inexpensive
Cons
Not ideal for hangdogging sport climbs
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

I mostly use these draws for ice and trad climbing, which is where they shine. They are extremely lightweight and low-bulk, and they can still be manipulated while wearing thin or midweight gloves. The thin dogbones and smaller carabiners aren't ideal for hangdogging hard sport routes, but there are plenty of draws better-suited for that. These guys are solid little draws.

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Pro Key with Leash

Wild Country
Wild Country Pro Key with Leash
6

Superior Nut Tool

Pros
Leash
Space on back for hammering
Good value
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

This nut tool has been on my rack since I started trad climbing. The leash is a huge plus, since dropping a nut tool would be a shame while halfway up a route. The wider back end is a huge plus for hammering out stuck pieces (my preferred hammer is a #9 Rockcentric). The only thing I can criticize is that some other nut tools have built-in hex wrenches for tightening bolts.

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Ultralight Master Cam 0

Metolius
Metolius Ultralight Master Cam 0
6

Solid quality micro-cam

Pros
Inexpensive
Flexible head
Doesn't walk easily...
Cons
Takes some extra care to set
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times

Generally I try to avoid climbs that require a cam of this size, but it's very confidence inspiring. They're the best bang for your buck out of all the small cams, and they're solid when placed correctly. Having climbed with some other micros, these seem to require a bit more care to place, but the difference is marginal. They also seem to walk less than other brands and TCUs. Some people hate the lack of a thumb loop, but I haven't missed it.

If you're looking to build your rack of small cams, these are a great place to start.

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Express 16cm

Black Diamond
Black Diamond Express 16cm
6

Dont fall on ice and you won't have to worry about if it holds

Pros
Easy to place
Two attachment points
Folding handle
Color-coded
On the cheaper end of modern ice screws
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

It's hard to find anything negative to say about most modern ice screws, and the Express screws are no exception. They go in quickly, they go in easily, they aren't bulky, and I'm pretty sure they might hold a fall (I've never fallen on ice so I wouldn't know). They're relatively easy to start (depending on ice conditions), and the extendable handle makes finishing them a breeze. The two attachment points makes organization easy at the anchor. The 16 cm is the length I most commonly use when leading.

Solid piece of kit, they have my recommendation.

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Turbo 22cm

Black Diamond
Black Diamond Turbo 22cm
5.04

My dad had me start leading with these before he let me use his new ones

Pros
Inexpensive
Will get the job done
Good for building anchors/V-threads/A-threads
Easy to find used
Cons
PITA to screw in compared to modern screws
Lack of a folding handle
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

My dad had a bunch of these from the late 90s and early 2000s that he made me use when I started leading ice. I think his thought process that that it would make me appreciate how much of a difference an extending handle makes. Functionally they are the exact same as the Express Ice Screw, except for the handle. These require significantly more time to place because they go in inscrements of 1/2-3/4 of a turn at a time.

Not a bad piece of kit if you're looking to expand your rack of screws at a discount. Or if you're looking to add a few screws with just slightly less bulk. They're also good for building anchors and V/A-threads. It's also pretty easy to find these screws (of varying ages) used online or in used gear shops.

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Regulock HMS Screwlock

Trango
Trango Regulock HMS Screwlock
6

Good gear from Trango

Pros
Large basket
Smooth gate and screw action
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

These have taken over as my favorite locking carabiner. I primarily use them for belaying and creating personal tethers. The gate is large enough to handle a clove or munter hitch. The screw and gate function smoothly after hundreds of outings. And they're relatively inexpensive compared to other large lockers.

Like with all lockers, they're a bit on the heavy side so I try to limit the amount I take with on longer routes.

They're solid lockers.

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Rocklock Screwgate 2019

Black Diamond
Black Diamond Rocklock Screwgate
5.04

Solid locker

Pros
Large basket
Good for belays and personal tethers
Cons
Scratching sound in the screw after some use
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

I primarily use these for belaying and for attaching myself to anchors. They're big enough to handle clove and munter hitches, and they work well with all the belay devices I've paired them with (ATC, ATC-Guide, Pilot, Pivot, GriGri 2). They are big and heavy though, so I try to minimize the number of these that I carry on longer routes. Also I've noticed a strange scraping/squeaking sound with the screw on the gate, that has developed on all my carabiners after normal use. It doesn't appear to affect the integrity of the carabiner, but it can get annoying. This has not happened with other lockers that I own.

Its a locking carabiner, you can't go wrong with this one.

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