Collecting every piece of gear takes a little time.
We think it's worth the wait.
Nice choice!
Give us a moment to collect those options for you.
Climbers who want one shoe for all styles of climbing favor our performance-oriented Instinct collection. A classic shoe reinvigorated-- the updated Instinct lace still offers a performance fit on a curved, asymmetric last, but now with a micro suede synthetic upper and a welded overlay. Performance is enhanced with a high degree of pre-stored power in the Bi-Tension Active Rand, which pulls the sole up and back onto the forefoot giving an extremely precise, low profile fit. The award winning Instinct VS heel is now incorporated into the 2016 lace version. This remains the most supportive shoe in the Instinct family.
When you click a link below and then checkout online, no matter what you buy (climbing gear or not), we get a small commission that helps us keep this site up-to-date. Thanks!
| Weight | 442 g Single : 221 g / 7.8 oz (Size 40) |
| Closure Type | Lace |
| Gender | Unisex |
| Volume | |
| Sizing Information |
European sizes 34-45, including half sizes. From your measured size, you'll want to consider downsizing .5 - 2 full sizes. The flatter the shoe, the closer to your measured size; the more downturned / aggressive the shoe, the more you'll want to downsize.  Scarpa-Shoe-Size-Chart_4.pdf |
| Best Use (Highest Performance) |
Sport / Face Bouldering Indoor |
| Asymmetry | Moderate |
| Tongue Details | not provided by the brand |
| Last Details | Shape: Arched (technical) Construction: not provided by the brand Last : FV Scarpa considers last information super top secret so we can’t define the last types further than the initials FV. But, if you find a Scarpa shoe that fits, any Scarpa shoes with the same last initials will fit your foot in a very similar way. |
| Upper Material | 1.8 mm MICROSUEDE |
| Midsole Material | 1.0 mm Flexan |
| Sole Material | 4.0 mm
VIBRAM® XS Edge
Rand: Bi-Tension |
| Footbed Lining | not provided by the brand |
No reviews yet.
I would absolutely recommend these to any reasonably experienced climber looking for a shoe that can do it all. As mentioned before, these were the reviewer’s absolute favourite shoe for several years before moving onto softer, more sensitive models and I still return to them for hard vertical walls or where I need a crucial edge.
A stiff, moderately downturn climbing shoe has a myriad of applications, and the Scarpa Instinct Lace is no exception. We think its edging prowess, paired with its impressive sensitivity, makes it an ideal shoe for techy sport and trad climbs. It's especially great for anyone with wide feet that has struggled to find a comfortable fit from other manufacturers. Despite the high price, we think this a perfect shoe for proficient climbers that are eager to jump up a grade.
Overall, the Scarpa Instinct VS and Lace up can both be described as all around high performance downturned climbing shoes. With the ability to handle a variety of terrains, the Scarpa Instinct can act as an everyday base shoe for anyone serious about climbing. With a similar look and feel, both models feature power and precision in the toe box and one of the best heels on the market. If we had to make the distinction between the two models, the VS version is much better suited for overhanging terrain and bouldering while the lace up performs stronger on vertical terrain due to its stiffer sole. If we had to find a negative of these shoes, it would be that they both have a longer than usual breaking in period, with the lace-up fitting slightly tighter and having a longer break in period than the velco version and that the rand may be somewhat thick for those looking for sensitivity.
At the time I was putting the Lace through its paces I was trying to climb (and failing) The Groove at Malham week in, week out for around two and a half months. Anyone that has been in this situaiton knows you try everything that you think will make a difference, so I used one, then then other, and the Lace came out on top every time. The unrelenting quantity of small, polished footholds that feature on this route provides the perfect testing ground for any edging boot and the Lace consistently performed well over an extended time frame, where the VS softened and became much more difficult to use (and anyone who has climbed at Malham will know, you do around 12 foot movements for every single hand movement).
