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Griff6014

Reviews

Sama

Petzl
Petzl Sama Harness
5.04

Comfortable to sit in all day

Pros
Very comfortable for belaying or weighing the rope to take a break
No excessive straps for adjustments dangling around like a rental harness
Cons
Thigh size could use some adjustability
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

Very comfortable and lots of room to clip all kinds of gear.  Wish the thighs offered a bit of adjustment.  It's a bit thick in the fabric and heavy but it's also what makes it very comfortable to wear and sit in.

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Otaki Men

La Sportiva
La Sportiva Otaki Men Climbing Shoe
4.02

Power shoe that needs to be more sensitive

Pros
Great shoe for power moves, especially with the heals
Good for bouldering
Cons
Lacks some sensitivity when smedging or edging
Just tolerable for a wide foot
Wearing out at the seams rather quickly with still lots of rubber on the toe
Very stiff mid sole
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

These are good for bouldering but I also use them for top rope where they're ok.  They lack some sensitivity in the toe especially when edging or smedging.  This is shoe that will fit a wider foot, but ist still tight (sized down 1/2).  I found that they work best when making big power or dyno moves especially with the heal where you need to catch a hold by the heal or pull yourselv up with the heal.  If they were more sensitive and flexed more in the mid sole, I'd consider resoling them but will like try another shoe the next time around especially at this price there's TONS of options for an aggressive high performance shoe. 

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Finale Men 2021

La Sportiva
La Sportiva Finale Men Climbing Shoe
6

Very underrated shoe

Pros
Sticky
all day comfortable
Surprising feel and sensitivity
Great fit for a wide foot
Cons
Fabric will stretch out so size down appropriately
heal portion by the achilles can be uncomfortable
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

Fantastic shoe at any price.  The rubber is sticky and thick so it'll last (in fact has lasted longer than my La Sportiva Ottaki which I believe are .5mm thinner), yet there's quite a bit of sensitivity and feel in this shoe especially when smearing or edging.  The top of the heal can rub against the achillies a bit and be uncomfortable but once worn in it's barely noticeable.  I sized down and they've stretched out to form my foot after a dozen uses.  My feet are wide in the toe box and these conform nicely.  

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Verso

Petzl
Petzl Verso Belay Device
3

Light braking. Good for belaying my 70lb son

Pros
Light weight and high quality finish
Cons
Lacks a bit of braking which is more noticeable when I'm belaying a heavier climber on a small rope...

It's really light with a very high quality finish to it.  The braking is light as you'll read in many pro reviews so I use it to belay my 70lbs son.

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GriGri +

Petzl
Petzl GriGri + Belay Device
4.02

There's a sweet spot

Pros
Fun gadget if you like gadgets
Cons
There's a sweet spot to lowering a climber and both rope size and quality make difference...
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times

I like gadgets and gear so I added this to my array of belay devices but honestly only have used it a dozen or so times.  There is a sweet spot on the lever to lower the climber at a good steady rate but thicker ropes (10+) that are worn will catch the autolock. 

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ATC Guide

Black Diamond
Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device
5.04

Can't go wrong with it. Easy decision to pick.

Pros
Zero to no learning curve. Wide range of rope size
Cons
Tad heavy

If you can't decide on which a basic tube stype device just add this to your cart and check out.  There's ton of pro reviews on this deivice and they're all accurate.  Solid device that seems to like a varity of ropes and biners.

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Tarantulace Men 2021

La Sportiva
La Sportiva Tarantulace Men Climbing Shoe
4.02

Very comfortable beginner shoe

Pros
Very comfortable
Lace up and leather lets this show to shape to your foot once broken in
Cons
Rubber could be better which would make this a great beginner to intermediate or back up shoe
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

Very comfortable shoe but quickly went beyond their capability on more difficult climbs (5.9/10s and V3/4s) where some additional precision is needed.  That being said, I have seen many climbers in the gym with these shoes climbing some of the hardest routes in them sucessfully, and I do still wear them to warm up with or climbing routes that my 8 year old son is on and find that I will take my time more with my feet placement while doing so since they do not have the grip of my aggressive climbing shoe.  Also, I do hear and get comments from experienced climbers when they see me or someone wearing them for being beginners like it's a bad thing? 

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