I wore them on a variety of climbs to test their limits, from easy, low-angled climbs to routes that were very overhanging, on both limestone and granite. The Katakis were definitely not the shoe for low-angled granite where maximum friction was required, as the downturn shape prevented the shoe from smearing well. On the severely overhung routes—where you're not standing on your feet so much as using them like a second set of hands to grab, hook and pull—the shoes didn't have the..." go to full review
Before testing, I thought the rubber sole might not function as well as other sticky rubbers. But climbing on these shoes quickly put that concern out of my mind. The recycled rubber sticks admirably on polished and sharp stone alike.go to full review
Over the last four months, I’ve been lucky enough to test out two of Black Diamond’s recent offerings, the 9.2mm and 9.6mm in standard (non-dry) treatment. Non-dry ropes have always been my choice for summer climbing although I know quite a few people who pay the extra bucks for dry treatment hoping it will increase durability.go to full review
The BD 9.6mm rope is a super high-quality, all-around cord that will stand up to hundreds of whippers and months of abuse. This isn’t a great ultra-light redpoint cord, but it is a perfect partner for all the painful days or projecting leading up to that moment of glory.go to full review
On the belay, the Zone bore the brunt of my taking, boinking partner—who was also getting his own flogging by the cryptic slopey sidepulls. I have an old back injury that can flare up during intense belays, but the Zone inspired confidence that this pesky condition wouldn’t cause me a problem on my vacation. The harness spreads the weight evenly between my leg loops and waist belt, so I never got sore or cranky, at least not from the belay.go to full review
The Mammut Zephir Altitude harness is a great piece of gear for those who often find themselves on glaciers or on easy alpine climbs. It is light, packs small, is simple, and it’s incredibly easy to put on. As long as your objective doesn’t involve vertical, pitched-out climbing or rappels numbering in the double digits, the Zephir Altitude is definitely worth a look.go to full review
The Boreal Mutant is a soft, sensitive, face-climbing shoe that blends the edging power of the Five Ten Hiangle with the greater versatility and precision of the Sportiva Miura Lace. It is slightly higher-volume than both of those options, so the Mutant performs well while maintaining an extremely comfortable fit. The Mutant isn’t the most aggressive shoe on the market in terms of either downturn or asymmetry, and the lack of reinforcement under the toe box shows a clear emphasis on..." go to full review
The Five Ten Hiangle is a fantastic, high-performance sport and bouldering shoe, providing an unusual combination of edging power, sensitivity, and comfort. If you‘re looking for powerful edging with little regard for sensitivity, you’ll probably be better off with something like the Scarpa Instinct VS, Evolv Agro, or Sportiva Miura VS. Additionally, sport climbers whose projects mostly consist of pocketed limestone may find themselves a little underwhelmed by the rounded toe shape of the..." go to full review